I am determined to explain

This will be a short post, but very important. I am putting the SMACK down on my kids with the house today, so I need to put my attention there. But at the same time, this is THEE MOST asked question I get at the greenhouse or at home from anyone about tomatoes!

What is the difference between Determinate & In-Determinate Tomatoes? The answer is simple, and I am going to give you a "cheat" so you wont forget.Both of the terms are simply how the tomato will grow and produce. So first ask yourself, "What am I buying this tomato for?" Are you canning, or just eating? This is important when purchasing one of the two different kinds of tomatoes. Here is the reason...
Determinate tomatoes will all grow and ripen close to the same time, within a few weeks. Meaning the plant grows to a certain size, then grows the tomatoes, then they ripen. Pretty much that is the end of that tomato plant. These are the best tomatoes to use if you are canning.
Indeterminate tomatoes grow and fruit and grow and fruit. The plant continues to grow throughout the growing season and produce tomatoes. Never finishing growing, never finishing fruiting. Pretty much that will continue to frost.. These tomatoes will often ripen earlier than Determinate varieties. These are the tomatoes you want if you are just eat'n, mak'n a little fresh salsa & not canning.

Now for the "cheat" I use. I say, the Determinate tomatoes are DETERMINED to all be ripe at the same time. Left over is the Indeterminate and they just don't care. How easy is that?
Next time you head to the Greenhouse to pick a tomato plant, I hope this will help with your selection. I will spent the next few post talking more about tomatoes. I will add my favorite varieties in the coming posts. I get so many questions about Tomatoes, seems like I should spend some time on them. For right now, I think I will head out to my garden, grab a nice juicy tomato and get back to the house.
Happy Planting...

Ferns, I just cant get enough

Why do ferns scare so many people? I LOVE them, . Inside and outside. Often I think that many are afraid that ferns just don't belong in area's of the country that get hot. Or that ferns cant survive the harsh winters. Oh how I hope this post, of any other post I have ever posted will change you mind. I absolutely love ferns.Ferns are the most under used perennial out there. That to me is very sad. (they are actually on the endangered species list) People who come into my yard always say "I Love Ferns!" I always wonder why if they love them, they don't grow them. There are honestly over 1000 different varieties of ferns that live in temperate climates all around the world. (to bad that they have limited availability) Spread the word. Ferns are good, not bad! Then maybe we will all have better availability on new varieties.

Ferns do need Shade. Some of the information I have read indicates that Ferns can be grown in Full Sun. But I must say that none of the ferns that I have had would grow in Utah's hot sun. And that is the only place I have had them. I am going to say, stick to shade. My Shade isn't incredibly dense, but it stays shady all of the day. The parts of my ferns that hang into the sun actually get sun scalded. But thinking that Ferns MUST be in the deepest darkest shade just isn't correct. My shade is all along the front of my house.

Ferns emerge from their winter sleep all coiled up. They are called Fiddleheads! (great name) I love all of the stages of fern growth, but this one is my favorite. Leaves are called Fronds. If you purchase a Fern from a catalog to be mailed to you. It will most likely come in the form of a rhizomatous root. (really just a bulb of sorts) I had to throw out all of those names, because I think they sound pretty cool...

Growing Ferns-

Easy! Very little work! Part to heavy shade. Humus-rich, slightly acid, moist but well-drained soil. Mulch your ferns to hold in the moisture, it can also help with the early frost in the fall. Then again with the over wintering. Mulch, Mulch, Mulch! No real need to fertilize, as long as you keep organic mater in your garden and mulch. Although slow release fertilizer wont hurt. My Ferns get some every year because the rest of my perennial get some.

Propagation- Division, although I will admit I have never tried this.

If you plant rhizomatous roots, the crown should be just below the soil level. Dig the soil down 15 inches deep, then back fill. Add lots of organic material in the back fill if you can. Planting the crown to deep will cause the fern to rot. After planting make sure for the first year that your fern is well watered. If you plant a fern that is already started at the nursery, use the same instructions as above. You just have a little jump start.

I wouldn't plant any fern in your garden that you have just purchased until after the threat of frost is gone. Yes next year your ferns will survive the frost, but this year they are not hardened off. Don't take the chance. Also some of the fronds and stems may turn brown over the summer. No worries, cut them off. Let the fern keep growing. This is common.

I was going to post a list of Ferns to run out and get. But I decided that because the varieties are so varied, you better choose from things you see and like. Check the tag, make sure that the variety you like will survive in your zone. My honest favorite is the Japanese Painted Fern. (2004 Perennial plant of the year, just to throw that in) I just love it. And I have had mine now for 5 years, along with several other varieties. With really no other maintenance than watering. Yes, some of the ferns I have tried have died. But most, over 90% have lived! And they are doing great!

If you have shade, GO GET A FERN! Happy "Fern" Planting!

Russian Sage

I am a little late on my drought tolerant plants post. So I will do my best to post 2times today.

Russian Sage seems to be rather popular at the nursery I work at. Most people really like it, and know about it. We have all scene it. Personally, it is not one of my favorite plants. I have seen this plant get a little out of control. And I kinda think it looks like a large sage brush. (hey, all I can say about this blog is you will get my honesty right?) I have watched it grow in some yards, and have truly thought that no other plant would fit better. It just looked great. But for me, at least at this moment. I have not planted a Russian Sage in my landscape.

The Boring information here-

Russian Sage or Perovskia atriplicifolia the fancy planty name, isn't a Sage and isn't Russian. No kidding. It is actually native from Afghanistan to Tibet. It was named after a Russian Military Officer. I have no idea why. (and that concludes your history lesson for today) This plant was actually selected as the Perennial Plant of the Year in 1995! Not bad...

Will you like it?

This perennial has an upright habit, and resembles a shrub. It is a little woody in texture. I think it almost has a "greyish" color, with Purple flowers. The leaves are small (the flowers two), but some say they are lacy and delicate looking. Russian Sage is fragrant, and that is a main stay for many who grow this plant. For me I would think its best feature would be that it attracts butterflies, and does not attract deer!!! Oh my, maybe I better re-think this. I NEED stuff that does not attract deer! hee hee

I see this plant in a lot of xeriscape plantings. My sister is a xeriscaper, and she loves this plant. They are EXTREMELY drought tolerant, and heat tolerant. I have heard it does not do as well in the humid hot. Some say it is "floppy" in humidity and shade.
This perennial is a great "late" season bloomer. It can and often will bloom all the way to September. Wow! That is a great feature. I think if you put this flower with ornamental grasses it looks pretty cool actually. Sort of walking through a path in the woods.

Choose your variety carefully, make sure to check the tag. You want to be careful to pick the size you want. There are smaller versions that I could really see myself trying in the future. The most popular version I see in landscapes about 2 to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. That seems to be the "norm" or at least the most widely used variety.
Taking Care of-

When you purchase your Russian Sage make sure you DO water it until it is established. I would say for the first year. Then you shouldn't need to water it at all, or at least very little after that. Make sure to plant in FULL sun. This is NOT a shade plant. And I want to add, No Need to Fertilize.

In the spring I would cut your Russian Sage back, after you see a little new growth beginning. You could cut it all the way back to about a foot tall. That will encourage nice thick growth. Buggies don't seem to really even bother Russian Sage. DON'T divide Russian Sage if you want to propagate this plant. You can propagate by cuttings, but even that may be a little difficult. Cuttings don't take very easily, in my experience. You may have a different result than me. At the greenhouse the ratio of cuttings were 50/50. I have a good friend who has Russian Sage in her front yard in a rock wall. They look amazing. She has told me that they spread.

If you are looking for a dry hot plant, purple in color, that you don't have to water much... Run don't walk to your nearest garden center and pick up a Russian Sage! & as always, Happy Planting...